Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
